After this one and a half months of intensive research in Northern Somalia/Somaliland I have concluded that neither of Ensigo’s initiatives (Seeds Album and Volunteers For Creative Collaboration) will work at this point in time. Through interviews with local academics, musicians, government officials, NGO’s, news agencies, and religious leaders I have found that since the late 1990’s extremest practice of religion in the region has striven to suppress music and various other forms of artistic and traditional cultural expression (dancing, visual arts, drama/theatre, study of pre-islamic Somali history, traditional craft-making, local film industry, poetry, storytelling, literature, traditional dress, etc.). This has also created a hostile environment for collaboration among the the few local musicians that are left (especially with the uptempo inter-genre music that Ensigo is creating). I have been warned that this could potentially endanger the safety of both the local musicians and myself. So after this trial period and after much deliberation I have made the decision to cease all research here and move on to the next phase in Uganda. But I look hopefully to the future for increased freedom of artistic expression and the possibility of returning.
Somaliland is unlike any country I have previously experienced. It is a land of dramatic extremes! I have had some of the most thrilling positive experiences (which I will share in detail once I’m in Uganda). But in this same trip I have also been deeply saddened by a string of negative incidents I endured. However I think I’m gradually learning to find joy in all of these experiences and seek growth.
I consider my time in Somaliland well worth it. And I’m looking forward to continue investing in the friendships that I was blessed to form here.
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Tribute to the Days of Somali Musical Yore:
In my research I found that the golden era of locally composed and recorded Somali music has passed, hitting it’s pinnacle in the mid 1980’s with the popularity of groups like Iftin and Dur Dur, While there is an abundance of wonderful new Somali music being created by the diaspora (notable artists: Nimco, Maryan Mursal, and K’naan), the current state of music in Somalia is dismal. In recent history musicians were highly revered as cultural icons and voices of a generation, however many are now trapped in lifestyles of destitution revolving around an addiction to an amphetamine-like drug named “khat.” As a tribute to the days of Somali musical yore, and a longing to see local musicians return to making beautiful music and developing their talents, I am posting 5 of my favorite songs that were collected during my research. I hope you are as moved by the passion in the performances in these songs as I am. And please join me in praying for the restoration and local support of the musicians (and their families) who are remaining in Somalia.
Iftin – Haka Yeelin Nacabkeenna
Dur Dur – Goromphmca
Arays Esse – Haddii Kale Wahan Iahaa
Kinsi Xaaji Aadan – Adkaysan Waayoo Aduun Dhibkiisaa
Xasan Aadan Samatar